The H.I.K.E…. it looked like this….Six days…the width of England…about 90 miles/150 km. Something neither of us had ever attempted. Armed with hydration packs, bananas, a guide book, and the knowledge we just needed to keep going west…we started.
Here is a day-by-day recap…with some great pix taken along the way. Enjoy.
Day One: It started cloudy and windy, but as we took the first few steps from the Tynemouth Pier Lighthouse (around 0930) it was already starting to clear. This stretch of The H.I.K.E. was extra…I wanted to do a true coast-to-coast, so we added 6 miles to the trek. So, about 2 hours into it we reached the point where most people start the Hadrian’s Wall Path, aptly named….Wallsend. Somewhat disappointing little bit of Hadrian’s Wall is exposed here. Otherwise, you’re in an industrial estate.
The next 10 miles take you along the riverside Quay of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne. The weather has cleared. The sun is out. We are tempted by the outdoor German market with its sausages and beer, but carry on! We are making a good pace and on target to walk 23 miles today.
Once out of the city we are on a great walk/bike track following the river. Our feet are sore from all this walking on pavement, but we know we will soon be going off-road. Finally, the turn from concrete to bridle path. Out of the city and into the countryside!!! The last few miles are along an old railroad bed, straight, level, and shady!
After a few extra miles of walking past where we would have liked to have stopped (to get to the campground) we are done.
I think Mike and I were both asleep by 8 PM.
Day Two: After a good night’s rest we awoke to another beautiful day. Our Chase Team dropped us off at Heddon-on-the-Wall so we could start the day’s hiking. This is another spot where a small bit of the Wall is exposed. It is also where the Hadrian’s Wall Path actually starts to parallel the wall itself.
The trek today was a dream come true for me. I was back in the English countryside. Grassy trails, sheep, cows, rolling hills…oh, how I have missed this! Our goal for today is 15 miles, our target, Chesters Fort, one of the many historical sites along our way.
After the punishment of 20 miles or so on pavement yesterday, our feet rejoiced at the soft grassy track we had most of the day. We also enjoyed the gentle elevation changes, knowing all too well that tomorrow’s miles were going to be the most difficult of the whole trip.
Six hours or so of walking, breathing, and taking in the sights, found us in places like Halton Shields, Whittington Fell, Greenfield, and then Chesters Fort.
Another day done… all that is left is waiting to grab the bus.
Day Three: Another beautiful day weather-wise for starters. The plan was to take the bus back to where we stopped yesterday (Chesters Fort) but, we decided to save some waiting time and found a place we could access the Hadrian’s Wall Path a short distance from the campground. The good news was…we could start sooner and the wind would be at our backs, the other news is…we were starting in the heart of the most difficult stretch of the Path.
Short version, about 3 miles in my left knee started to protest the many steep climbs (up and down) it soon became evident I might not make it the whole way today. At about 5.5 miles in it was decision time. I could no longer bend my knee and there were multiple steep climbs still to come.
I did a rare thing…and followed my own advice. I stopped for the day. From where we were I could make it to the road and grab a bus back to the campground. Which I did. I spent the rest of the day with an ice-pack on my knee. Mike carried on and finished this leg on his own…carrying the Team spirit with him.
It was a bit disheartening to miss a section, especially this section, which has the most wild views and so much of The Wall is still visible.
Hoping the rest was enough to allow me to carry on for the remainder of the trek.
Day Four: Yes, the weather is sunny a with a bit of a breeze. Yes, you can get a sunburn in Northumbria in May.
Starting today with a bit of hesitation…how is the knee going to fare? Today’s section of the hike is the second most difficult stretch. More steep elevation changes on uneven rocky steps.
There is only one way to find out.
We start at the same place we began yesterday, but today we head west. Contrary to the usual wind direction, we have the breeze at our backs. This section starts with the most challenging bits first, then starts to calm down. I figure if I make the first hill, I can make them all. Fortunately, I was mostly right.
We enjoyed the wild scenery, the exposed parts of the wall are starting to get smaller and fewer in number, and the terrain less punishing as we cover another 15 miles or so. We passed thru or by places with great names…Cockmount Hill, Walltown, Gilsland, Birdoswald, Wall Bowers, and then decided to go an extra few miles because we were making such good time.
We ended our trek in the little village called Walton. Found the Tea Shop and celebrated with a Ginger Beer as we awaited our Chase Team to come for us. The knee is protesting, but I decided to not listen.
Two days to go!
Day Five: I’m tempted to research into whether or not this part of England has ever had such nice weather for so many days in a row. OK, we did get some rain, but at 2 in the morning. Today’s goal, 13 or so miles from Walton to the city of Carlisle.
Our faithful Chase Crew dropped us off in Walton…at the nice little tea house, but where they had the luxury of a cuppa, we had a job to do.
This stretch was 5-6 hours of walking bliss. Most of the hike was thru fields, a few stretches on some tarmac, but no complaints.
There is little to no “wall” to be seen as we head west, having been dismantled over the centuries. The stone being used to build houses, barns, churches, and (smaller) walls.
The gentle terrain means the possibility of a faster pace, except when a certain person’s knee is being annoying. Nevertheless, we make some good time and it isn’t long before Sandysike, Cambeckhill, Heads Wood, and Newtown are behind us.
We did have some company along the way. A few other hikers headed in the same direction would chat for a bit, share their stories, and then move on. At this point we too are yearning for the last step.
After a relatively leisurely stroll we come out of the countryside and into Carlisle. A quick stop into a shop to get Mike some new insoles, and a brief pub visit to replace fluids and carbs.
Finally it was sorting out which bus would get us to the campground for our final night.
One more day…about 16 miles to go…mixed emotions about that.
Day Six: This is it…the last leg! The last time to fill hydration packs, grab walking sticks, put on hiking shoes. In about 15 miles it will be…finished! Mixed emotions about this. We started early today to (hopefully) have an early finish… thus allowing us to get back to Southport before traffic got to heavy.
We waited for the bus as the sun rose on this chilly May morning. We needed to get back into Carlisle to pick up the trail, and begin the trek west for Bowness-on-Solway.
It didn’t take long for us to go from the urbanity of the city to some beautiful parks, then into the outlying towns, villages, and farms.
The final section of this Path has been described as the least interesting. No real elevation changes, little evidence of the Wall, and not much in the way of scenery. But, my knee started bothering me again, so I had that for entertainment.
We passed through a number of small villages, many of them walker-friendly…a church advertised public restrooms, we passed a few honour-system snack tables (a cooler with cold drinks/candy bars), and a few well-placed pubs.
Today seemed to be the hardest day of the whole adventure. Odd, as the terrain was far from difficult, it was no warmer than other days, perhaps it was my knee feeling its worst, or the thought that each step was one closer to it all being over.
As we approached Bowness, the terrain turns flat, very flat. To the right is the River Eden, and when the tide is out, you have a lot of flat, muddy, marshland. But, be wary, when the tide comes in…it comes in fast! There warning signs everywhere explaining why you should NOT go near the river….riptides, strong currents, and other dangers await.
As we pass a sign telling us Bowness is only a mile away the realisation of the scope of what we are about to complete hits me. We just walked across the width of England! We just walked over 90 miles…with a sunburn, a few blisters , and a wonky knee as extra evidence, just in case there was any doubt.
Walking up the main street in Bowness we hear clapping and cheering. waiting for Mike and I are our favourite wives. They had gotten into town ahead of us and were having lunch at the pub.
Breaking with tradition, we first stopped at the pub for some well-needed hydration and some crisps. Then, hand-in-hand with our wives, Mike and I took the last few steps to the official finish line.
Done. Finis. Over. Completed. Mission Accomplished. Quite possibly the most physically arduous experience of my life. Quite possibly the craziest thing I’ve ever done.
Yes. I would do it again…just not this week.
Summary:
Over 90 miles/150 km …no idea of how many steps that equals, but I know this…it was a lot!
Was it worth it? Yes!!
We raised over $6800.00 US to be used to help rewrite futures. Donations came from Serbia, the US, The UK, and Canada.
Would you really do it again? Yes!
But for next year (yep planning already) we are looking at a different, longer, more challenging location. Stay tuned!
It was fun, educational, physically demanding, and a great time.
Thanks to all of you who supported this adventure!
Paul.